Rock climbing: the knot lowdown

When you’re learning how to tie knots for rock climbing, this is probably one of the first you will come across. It’s a relatively easy knot to get the hang of and a great one for beginners to master. 

The figure of eight knot is known as a ‘stopper knot’, and is designed to prevent your rope from running out. It works with the stiffest of rock face and when tied correctly is one of the most stable knots around. Just make sure you leave at least 15cm of rope free at the end. 

Use it for: tying your rope to your harness (also known as ‘tying in’).

You might also hear this knot being referred to as the European Death Knot – but don’t let that put you off! It’s actually a very secure way to join two ropes, even fairly inflexible ones that might be a challenge for other knots. You’ll need to leave 20-30cm at the end of your rope. 

Use it for: joining two ropes together when you’re abseiling (also known as rappelling). It can also be used for tying in but the figure of eight is much stronger, as well as being easier to adjust and untie. 

Advanced climbers who are pushing their limits on a climb tend to have a few falls along the way. It’s no problem when roped in safely, but a technical climb with lots of falls can throw up the need for a tying in knot that’s easy to untie. The trouble with the figure of eight knot is that it ties itself tighter and tighter the more load force it bears. So with each fall, it becomes harder to untie. 

The bowline knot is often used as an alternative in these more extreme situations. While less secure and easier to get wrong than the figure of eight, it doesn’t become impossible to untie after a few falls in the same way. After all, nobody wants to be forced to cut their favourite rope short to get a stubborn knot out. And yes, it’s entirely possible to have a favourite rope!

Use it for: tying in, but only if you follow it up with a stopper knot like the overhand knot for safety. The double bowline is a handy – but trickier – alternative that doesn’t need a stopper knot. The bowline knot is also a useful one to use when tying a rope to a natural anchor, such as a tree. 

This little beauty is one of the best options if you need to join two ropes together for extra-long abseiling routes. Even better are the more complex double or triple fisherman’s knots. Reliable and strong but a bit on the bulky side. The ends of the knots should be taped to give the knot the least chance of working loose while in use. 

Use it for: tying the ends of two ropes together. 
 

If you’re looking for a simple and speedy knot that can be tied and untied with one hand, the clove hitch is a fantastic choice. It’s certainly not the top choice for safety and security – you’d never use it for tying in – but it does have its uses. 

Use it for: securing yourself to an anchor when belaying.
 

Also known as a munter hitch, this is one of those uncommon-but-incredibly-handy knots. When belaying another climber, we always recommend using a belay device – they’re the bees-knees when it comes to safety. However, there are rock climbing knots for belaying that can be used as a short-term fix if you find yourself without a belay device, and the Italian hitch is probably the best of the bunch. 

Use it for: rock face belaying if you forget your belay device. If you are sharing one device between two climbers, the Italian hitch is best used for belaying the second person up, leaving the safer option for the riskier lead climb.
 

This is one of those knots you hopefully will never have to use, but it can be vital in some self-rescue situations. It allows you to attach one rope to another so that it can then move up or down the length. For this to work, it’s vital that the rope on the rock face is much thinner than the thicker, stationary rope. 

Use it for: climbing up ropes or as a back-up when abseiling.

Staying at Airone, Alana, Buca or Messini Beachclubs? You’ll have the chance to scale the climbing wall as an inclusive activity. With our expert instructors on hand to help, it’s a fun way to get started even with zero previous experience. 

If you fancy taking your skills onto the rock face, Alana Beachclub in Croatia or  Messini and Buca Beachclubs in Greece offer exhilarating outdoor rock climbing experiences. Head into the towering mountains of Paklenica National Park in Croatia or the beautiful limestone crags of Kardamili in Greece. There’s nothing quite like the feel of the sun on your face, the wind in your hair and the rock beneath your fingers.